Hair Removal
There are many types of hair removal. Some are temporary and some are permanent. Choosing the right one for you has many factors including, but not limited to, your skin and hair type, skin and hair pigmentation (how light or dark both the skin and hair are), skin sensitivity, what is available in your local area, and your pocketbook. While that may not be all the factors, having accurate information will make your decision-making process so much easier.
Temporary Hair Removal
Permanent and Semi-Permanent
- Waxing
- Sugaring
- Chemical Depilatory
- Tweezing/ plucking
- Threading
- Shaving
- Epilating
- Electrolysis
- Laser
- Medication
Hair Growth
Okay, so we are going to get a little sciencey here for just a minute. Hang with me. Hair goes through 3 phases anagen phase (growth phase), catagen phase (regression phase), and telogen phase (resting phase). The anagen or growth phase is when the hair cells divide, keratinize, and dies causing the hair to grow longer. The 2nd phase is the catagen or regression phase where the hair stops growing and shrinks away from the follicle. The last phase is the telogen or resting phase when the hair follicle has not started to grow a new hair yet and the old hair has not fallen out. Then it starts all over again. Not all hair follicles are in the same phase at the same time, all of our hair doesn’t fall out at the same time. Think about the hair on your head the average person loses around 100 strands a day.
There are 2 types of hair terminal hair and vellus hair. Terminal hair is usually heavily pigmented including head hair, eyelashes and brows, beard hair, pubic hair, and dark hair on the arms, legs, back, and chest. Vellus hair, also called peach fuzz, is short, typically lighter in color, and fine or soft. An adult male can have up to 95% terminal and 5% vellus hair, a female is usually closer to 35% terminal and 65% vellus although this can vary widely. Think about how dark or thick the hair on your arms, legs, and back is. Some hormonal conditions such as Hirsutism can cause excessive hair and need to be discussed with a physician like a dermatologist or an endocrinologist.
Hair and skin pigmentation also plays a role in hair removal choices. Pigmentation in our hair and skin is determined by the amount of melanin synthesized by the melanocytes. If the melanocytes produce a lot of melanin the skin or hair is darker, think African or Pacific Island skin tones, it does not produce much the skin is lighter, so think Northern European skin tones. Skin stimulation, UV exposure (natural and artificial) as well and genetics all affect melanin production.
The last major factor, outside of your pocketbook and what is available in your area, is what medical conditions, medications, and topical products you are using. Some medications including but not limited to blood thinners and acne medications can thin the skin or make you more likely to have bruising and skin tears. Medical conditions like diabetes may cause similar issues. You should always discuss your health option with both your health care provider and any professional that would be providing the service for you to make sure you are receiving the best service or treatment for you and your unique needs.
Okay, now that we looked at all of that, let’s talk about the different types of hair removal and the pros and cons of each.
Temporary Hair Removal
Temporary hair removal either cuts the hair at the skin surface, uses a chemical to break down the protein in the hair, or pulls the hair from the follicle. Temporary techniques have to be kept up with regularly some as often as every 1-3 days others at a 4-8 week interval. while all can be done at home some you may find easier or get better results being performed by a professional.
Shaving
Shaving cuts the hair at the skin surface. Shaving also lightly exfoliates the skin. It needs to be done typically every few days. Shaving may not be the best choice for those with curly or coarse hair. It can also be difficult to do on yourself in hard-to-reach places, like your back. If you are prone to ingrown hairs you may have more problems with shaving. It is a myth that shaving causes the hair to become thicker. But, because of the angle that the hair is cut, it can make the hair feel coarser and may make skin itch as the hair grows in. Shaving is one of the lowest cost options, if not the least expensive, but it does need to be done most frequently. The only tools needed are the razor and soap or shaving cream. Hair can be shaved in any phase and is safe for all skin tones. You may have to be careful with some medication and some medical conditions. Don’t forget to check in with your doctor or pharmacist if in doubt.
Chemical depilatory (over the counter)
Over-the-counter chemical depilatories use a chemical to break down the keratin protein in the hair so that it can be wiped away. Typically it contains thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acids, calcium thioglycolate, calcium hydroxide, and strontium hydroxide. The cream or gel is applied to the skin and left for about 10 minutes before being rinsed off. It typically needs to be done every 4-8 weeks. Safe for most skin tones but may not be a good choice for those with sensitive skin. While not common, some people may develop a sensitivity or contact dermatitis over time. It is relativity inexpensive. You may have to be careful with some medication and some medical conditions. Don’t forget to check in with your doctor or pharmacist if in doubt.
Tweezing, threading, and epilating
Tweezing (also called plucking), threading and epilating are all closely related. They all pull a single hair or small group of hair from the follicle. Tweezing uses a small metal device to grab 1 or 2 strands of hair at a time and removes them by the root. Threading uses string or thread to remove hair in a row or small group by pinching the hair between the 2 strands of the string as the string is twisted and untwisted. Epilating uses a mechanical device that contains a rotating row of tweezers to pull the hair from the follicle. Tweezing and threading are done in smaller areas like eyebrows and lips. Since the hair is removed by the root over time more hairs will be in the same growth phase and will need to be done less often. You may also find that over time less hair will grow back because the follicle is damaged. It is safe for all skin tones but can be difficult over large areas. All 3 can be done at home although threading is most often done professionally. There is a small chance of ingrown hairs. Medications don’t often affect these techniques but if in doubt please check with your doctor or pharmacist.
Waxing and sugaring
Waxing and sugaring are similar. A sticky substance is used to trap the hair and pull it out. While whole hair is removed if done incorrectly or if the hair is too long the hair may break and will give shorter results. Wax is typically made of beeswax, rosin, and pine resin. They often also contain chemical colorants, perfumes, buffers, and pH regulators. In short, they have the potential for allergic reactions and sensitive skin. Sugaring paste is made of sugar or honey, lemon juice, and water. There is less chance of an allergic reaction but both waxing and sugaring have a higher risk of causing folliculitis (inflammation of the hair follicle). Both are usually done at a 4-8 week interval but some may do it more frequently. Waxing and sugaring can both be done at home but are most often done in a professional setting. Waxing can be broken down into 2 types. Hard (strip-less) wax and soft (strip) wax. Hard wax does not stick to the skin and may be a better choice for those with sensitive skin or who have thinner skin. Both can be done at any phase of hair growth and over time waxing may need to be done less often as more hair follicles get on the same growth cycle. It is safe for most skin tones although darker skin tones may find that the stimulation to the area over time can cause the skin to darken, especially in the underarm and groin area. Pricing varies widely depending on your location. Many medications (oral and topical) and medical conditions can cause problems with waxing and sugaring so make sure to tell your waxing provider and don’t forget to check in with your doctor or pharmacist if in doubt. I know I say that a lot but burns, skin tears, and chemical interactions can result in a trip to the hospital or worse, permanent scarring.
Permanent and semi-permanent hair removal
Now let’s look at the permanent and semi-permanent hair removal options. Electrolysis, laser, and prescription medications. All permanent hair removal should be done in a medical setting by a licensed professional.
Electrolysis
Electrolysis is a medical procedure used to permanently remove hair by inserting a tiny needle into the hair follicle. It is the only FDA-approved permanent form of hair removal. There are 3 types of electrolysis: galvanic, thermolysis, and blended. Galvanic electrolysis uses a small direct electrical current to produce a chemical reaction to damage the hair follicle. Thermolysis uses a short-wave radio frequency to produce heat to damage the hair follicle. The blended method combines both heat and a chemical reaction to damage the follicle. It needs to be done over several sessions to make sure it is done during the active growth cycle. Sessions are typically done on a weekly or bi-weekly basis and may require as many as 30 sessions. Treatments are usually less expensive per session than laser though both vary widely by location. Electrolysis does not target pigmentation, so it may be a better choice for those with light fine hair or who have dark hair on dark skin tones. Make sure to talk to both your medical provider and the provider who will be doing the electrolysis about any and all medical conditions, devices, and medications you are taking.
Laser
Laser hair removal uses a concentrated beam of light to target pigmentation in the hair to damage it. Laser hair removal is considered semi-permanent and usually needs to be touched up at between 2 and 8 years. While sessions are typically more expensive than electrolysis fewer treatments are needed for the initial series. There are several types of lasers used in hair removal and the provider should work with you to determine if you are a good candidate and if the laser that they use is a good fit for your hair and skin type. The most common are Alexandrite, Diode, Ruby, and lastly Nd and Lp Nd: YAG. The Alexandrite method uses a shorter wavelength to treat the hair and is better for light skin tone and dark hair. It is one of the most common. Diode Laser uses a slightly longer wavelength and maybe a better choice for those with medium skin tones and coarser hair. The Ruby laser was one of the first lasers used for hair removal. It is used primarily for lighter skin tones with darker hair and is not used as often anymore. Lastly the Nd and Lp Nd: YAG uses a longer wavelength. This is more likely to be used for those with dark skin tone and dark or coarse hair types. You may have to be careful with some medication and some medical conditions. Don’t forget to check in with your doctor or pharmacist as well as your service provider if in doubt.
Prescription medication
There are both oral and topical prescription medications for hair removal. Most oral medications are to treat hair growth from hormonal imbalances such as Hirsutism. Topical creams are used to retard hair growth, most often in women’s facial hair. The creams are newer to the market and there is not a lot of information currently out on them.
There is a lot to consider when deciding what method is best for you. The temporary removal methods may require light testing to see how your body reacts to them. Remember, I am not a medical professional and can not make these choices for you. If you have health conditions and/or are on medications talk to your health care provider and pharmacist to determine what side effects or interactions you may have.
You may be wondering why I didn’t put dermaplaning on here. Dermaplaning is technically an exfoliation process and while it does remove vellus hair (peach fuzz) that is just a bonus. If you want more information on dermaplaning, learn more HERE.
