Dermaplaning
What is Dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is a deeper exfoliation technique that uses a sterile surgical steel blade to remove dead dull skin, makeup build-up, and vellus hair (peach fuzz). Surgical steel is nickel-free so if you have a nickel allergy you should be safe but make sure to check with your provider. Dermaplaning removes the top layer of the skin leaving it glowing and refreshed. You use less makeup and skincare products because the dead skin and hair are not there to absorb some of it. Makeup lays smoother and more even.
Who is Dermaplaning for?
Dermaplaning is safe for most skin types and skin tones. It is considered safe for global skin tones (darker skin tones) that may not be a good fit for other deeper exfoliation treatments. People with more sensitive skin are usually still good candidates for dermaplaning because it is less aggressive and can be done without a peel after.
Who is Dermaplaning not for?
Dermaplaning is not a good choice for those with an active sunburn, diabetics, people with eczema or psoriasis on the face, or people with bleeding disorders. Medications such as blood thinners, isotretinoin, retinol, or any medication that thins the skin or creates a bleeding risk may also make you ineligible. Some topical creams and serums may need to be discontinued for a few days before and after.
Dermaplaning is not recommended during pregnancy. Starting something new is not usually a great choice while pregnant, hormonal changes make the skin more sensitive not to mention unpredictable. However, if you are already regularly dermaplaning and have not noticed any changes in your skin talk to both your health care provider and your service provider to see if you can continue to get them. Make sure to mention any changes in your skin at each facial visit. You may need to change your service slightly for example if you usually get a chemical peel with your facial you may need to switch to a fruit enzyme.
What is the difference between a Dermaplaning facial and an express Dermaplaning?
I offer 2 different dermaplaning facial experiences. The first is a dermaplaning facial, this is a full facial with the dermaplaning. The skin is cleansed and prepared for dermaplaning. After the dermaplaning is performed a fruit enzyme is applied. A skin-nourishing serum is applied under a hydrating mask and a cold globe massage soothes and calms the skin. The facial is finished with your skin’s appropriate moisturizers and SPF. The facial takes about an hour. The second option is the express dermaplaning. This option is for those on the go. The skin is cleansed and prepared for dermaplaning, after dermaplaning a fruit enzyme is applied and the skin is finished with the appropriate moisturizers and SPF. The facial is finished in 30-45 minutes. A chemical peel can be added to a dermaplaning service but only with a consultation and having received both services separately prior to assess how the skin will react. (Chemical burns are no joke.
Dermaplaning things to know
- Avoid retinol (Vitamin A), lactic and glycolic acid, or other “active” serums for 24-48 hours before and after. (72 if you have particularly sensitive skin)
- You will be sun sensitive for 5-7 days after so don’t forget the sunscreen.
- Avoid tanning or prolonged sun exposure ( natural or artificial) for 2-3 days before and 5-7 days after
- It is not unusual to be pink or a little red after dermaplaning and it should subside within 24 hours
- While it is safe to reapply makeup after your services it is not recommended. If you must reapply it is preferable to use either a mineral makeup or a tinted SPF
- Don’t forget to book your next appointment before you leave, for about 28 days later
Dermaplaning aftercare
The day you dermaplane you do not need to do anything to the skin unless you have applied makeup. Then use a gentle cleanser to remove the makeup before bed. The next day you can return to your regular skincare routine while skipping any heavy active ingredients (lactic acid, retinol, etc.) for another day or so. Wait to exfoliate for a few days, so no brushes or scrubs. Don’t forget the SPF, I know I say this a lot, especially for any deeper exfoliation service but it is very important. If you have done any service that removes the top layer of skin, you are using a product to correct dark spots or with a leave-on exfoliant in it like acne treatments, an SPF is a must. Skipping the sunscreen could leave you sun-sensitive, with a burn, or worse it could stimulate melanin production making that dark spot darker not lighter!
Can dermaplaning be done at home?
The short answer is yes they do make at-home dermaplaning kits. Would I recommend it? No probably not. What is sold for home use is just not the same thing. They usually contain a blade with a guard to prevent cutting yourself. If you are using it solely to remove the hair it will probably be effective but not really much different than shaving your face with a regular razor. I am sure if you look hard enough you can find the professional ones online but to properly exfoliate the skin that blade should be used at approximately a 45-degree angle and passed over the skin several times with the correct pressure. While I may make it look easy I have been doing it for many years and I still don’t perform the service on myself.
